seminars and battlegrounds

Two weeks ago I left home for another journey to the ends of Mongolia. This time I headed east to Dornod aimag - as far east as you can go. After my trip west, you can [try to] imagine my level of excitement for this trip. After waiting for Hillary Clinton's caravan to pass which delayed our departure, we made it to Choibalsan in a speedy 13 hours.

We watched a little of Choibalsan's Naadam before getting down to the reason we were all out east - a Women's Empowerment Seminar. Rather than waste a lot of effort typing a description of the event, I'll leave you with a picture that sums up our experience wonderfully:

the look on my face is the picture worth 1000 words

After the seminar was finished, we packed up a van and drove out to the World War II battle site of Khalkhin Gol. The battle took place in 1939 between the Soviet/Mongolian forces and the Japanese. The Japanese believed that the border was at the river while the Mongolians held that the border was 16km east of the river. One day, some Mongolians crossed the river in search of their grazing animals and so began the battle of Khalkhin Gol. More fun facts: our guide at the museum told us that the battle contained the most amount of aircraft in the tiniest area of battle. It was a decisive victory for the Soviet and Mongolian forces and Wikipedia tells me that the Japanese defeat caused the dissolution of the front there causing the Soviets to turn toward Europe and the Japanese toward the US.

the river/battle site now

a diorama of the battle in the museum

it even lights up!

We camped along the river along with at least 5 million evil blood-sucking mosquitoes who were especially irritating when nature called and the mosquitoes tried to bite flesh they couldn't get to normally. But once our driver lit a dung fire for us, the mosquitoes fled for less smoky pastures and we enjoyed our s'mores in peace. Poop fires work just as well as wood fires and there's not even a poopy taste to the marshmallow. Win!

On our second day of adventuring, we checked out some of the monuments along the river before heading out to the nearby large stone Buddha carved into the hillside. We dutifully trek up the Buddha, take pictures, and discuss where to have lunch when a man from the military came over and demanded to see our IDs. The Mongolians we were with never had to show ID at any of the checkpoints, but for some reason all foreigners have to since it's so close to China. Very strange, but since we got permission to go months ago, it was no big deal.

The last stop before heading back was Buir Lake on the border with China. We were driving along when suddenly we made a very sharp turn. We were worried that we were heading out to the middle of nowhere because everything was extremely flat when we caught sight of the lake. Dripping with sweat as we were, it was nice to wade in the water, cool off, and wash off the grossness of sweat and bug spray that had been accumulating for two days.

China's out that way!

Our return trip was done Mongolian style with one phone playing music and the rest of us singing along in our oh so beautiful voices - that at least applies to mine considering I was nasally from a poorly timed head cold that's still plaguing me. The downpour that greeted us near the city wasn't a problem until the next two days when I first wiped out on a mud puddle and gained scratches and bruises all up my leg then had my bus ride back to UB take a horrible 20 hours (remember the way there was only 13) due to flooded roads. But now I'm back, safe and sound, and extremely ready to go home to a real bed and my cat. Ger sweet ger.